Without sustainability there is neither hope nor future. That said, the goals of sustainability can’t be fulfilled, if major companies won’t assume a (real) commitment to the concept.
With the importance of this commitment in mind, we spoke with representatives from two large Portuguese companies that have long declared their absolute loyalty to the cause of sustainability.
Words: Lígia Gonçalves
Photos: Pedro Ferreira with Ana Caracol
Thinking about major companies often means imagining huge grey masses of concrete. But reality is not always grey, nor it is always made of concrete. Fortunately for us there’s more colors and materials designing reality, because ultimately global problems demand much more than individual solutions. They demand grand-scale agitators, and companies that want to change the world and turn the future into a place of hope. With this subject in mind, we spoke with representatives from two major Portuguese companies — one in the textile sector, the other in footwear — about how sustainability has been an omnipresent concept within the brands they represent.
José Pinto, CEO of Procalçado, and Albertina Reis, Director of R&D at Riopele, spoke to us about the definition of sustainability; the future of the concept; how it is a fundamental pillar and not a trend; the materials and initiatives they have been developing; and how sustainability goes way beyond the materials. From now on, they have the floor.
The definition and meaning of sustainability
“Sustainability forms part of every process within Procalçado. It is there in the management of the production process just as it is there in the management of people.
We believe that it results from the combination of small acts that, together, have the power to turn production and, consequently, conventional consumption into more ethical action.”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
“We define sustainability holistically in three dimensions: environmental, social and economic. It is from the virtuous balance of these dimensions that we craft the product (design, value chain and raw materials), people (human resources and community) and processes (energy, water, waste and chemicals).”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
Sustainability as a pillar
“I joined the company more than 32 years ago, and even then there were model methodologies for the management of environmental resources, such as for water conservation and energy efficiency. So, in effect, all the initiatives linked to sustainability have been a part of Riopele for more than just the last half dozen years, but are part of a strategic development path that has been a part of the company’s DNA since 1927.”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
“Our future very much depends on our efforts to protect the environment and combat climate change. Our planet has set out its limits, and it demands from us ideas, solutions and models that are sustainable and which facilitate behavioural change in society — from companies to individuals. For the footwear industry to evolve, innovation, creativity and technology are fundamental. In this fast-paced and demanding world, we try to find new ways of producing while maintaining a sustainable fashion mentality. We believe in sustainable fashion, in a world in which the fashion market contributes to an evolving planet and better working conditions.”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
Development and new materials
“We are constantly researching and developing new materials, while maintaining our modern, urban sports and casual approach and reducing our impact on the planet’s natural balance. [For example], Sugarform™ is a material we recently introduced. It is a renewable, bio-based material made from 55% sugar cane. Its incorporation into our products makes them an option that meets our need for balanced production and sustainable development.”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
“Since 2012, we have invested 35 million euros in the acquisition of state-of-the-art equipment for use in the production areas, based on the following drivers: sustainability, circular economy and digitisation. We won the COTEC Innovation Product award with our TENOWA textile brand, which reuses our waste fabric. We have increased the use of raw materials from sustainably-managed forests. We have included circular design criteria and are developing distinct dyeing and finishing processes that use fewer resources during the production process and allow easy garment care.”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
Initiatives beyond materials
“We obtained the highest level of STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification. We reuse 55% of the water in our production process and have a system for reusing rainwater. We have reduced our energy consumption and have installed a photovoltaic solar farm.”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
“Local production in Portugal, recycling, use of renewable energy and social sustainability are all part of our ethos. Every step counts, and we have implemented a number of actions over time: renewable energy; reverse logistics; sustainable packaging; water used in production processes is contained in a closed circuit; [we established] the Lemon Jelly Wasteless Act with the aim of becoming a 0% waste brand, and in 2019 we launched our first line of footwear made from 100% industrial waste; [also] in 2019 we officially became a PETA-approved vegan brand; [we created] the Lemon Jelly Close the Loop Initiative; and [we are] working towards Environmental Certification (ISO 14001).”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
The social side of sustainability
“The sustainable future lies in the development of new models, of new practices in the global use of natural resources, in the adoption of innovative ways of managing people, spaces, processes and resources. The actions are varied, ranging from the simplest, such as growing our relationships with local suppliers, to those that are more complex and involve greater commitment, such as founding the Porto Pony Club, a social organisation that seeks to provide access to sport and therapeutic practices in a comprehensive and inclusive way without imposing any social or economic boundaries. [We also] provide all our staff with company health insurance.”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
“Sustainability is about much more than just the choice of materials. Fortunately, at Riopele we have many examples of the application of our sustainability practices. Just to mention the most recent: in 2020 we marked eight years of positive results. The number of employees has grown by 23% in the past decade. Currently, close to 45% of women are in positions of leadership. We have a positive impact on our community, with the installation of an incubator at our company.”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
The future of sustainability
“We all have to produce sustainably if the sector is to be sustainable. So it is important that the extraordinary practices of sustainable production within European textile companies is also the development model for companies on other continents.”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
“Sustainability is the key to the future; it is the way forward. Without sustainability there is no future.”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
The role of companies in the creation of a more sustainable and hopeful future
“Sustainability is no longer a choice. It is a priority. For each individual, organisations and companies that have a voice and the means to get this message out there. While not denying companies have an economic purpose, they should also include service to society in their mission, with a direct social impact on human and animal health. These are companies with the financial resources that allow them to devote part of their research and development budgets to launching new and innovative solutions. The big global brands also have a great deal of influence over the final consumer, on the people, and they must begin using this influence in a positive way to change social and environmental behaviour.”
— José Pinto, CEO, Procalçado
“The entire clothing and textile sector must learn to communicate better, educating the consumer and preparing the younger generations. Companies must create ways to inform and enable consumers to allow them to make an informed and sustainable purchasing choice. We also must demand more investment in research through the whole value chain, in partnership with universities and technology and scientific centres.”
— Albertina Reis, Director of R&D, Riopele
