Words: Teresa Castro Viana
There are some stories that start in books and others that start at the table. The Blind Restaurant & Bar in Porto, inspired by the world of José Saramago, and the Prosa Restaurant in Aveiro, designed to pay homage to Eça de Queiroz, prove that, just like literature, cuisine can also be an art form.
The excitement of reading the first page of a book and the thrill of trying a restaurant for the first time; the desire to know more about the story and the urge to taste the next dish; the anxious wait for the climax of the narrative and the curiosity to discover an unexpected ingredient; the nostalgia of finishing the last chapter and the recollection of a memorable meal. Although not evident, there are parallels between literature and cuisine, two arts that feed the soul of those who take refuge in them. After all, both are born from the hunger to feel, to understand and to create appealing new worlds.
It was with this commitment that Blind Restaurant & Bar opened its doors in February 2020 on the lower floor of the Torel Palace Porto hotel, a five-star establishment inspired by Portuguese literature, writers, and poets. “At Blind, we interpret gastronomy as an experience that evokes emotions, memories and all the senses”, they inform us. Recently awarded a Michelin star by the red guide, this fine dining restaurant is a tribute to Blindness (Ensaio Sobre a Cegueira), by José Saramago, taking guests on a journey that engages all the senses and transports them to a realm of constant discovery.
Run by Vítor Matos, Portugal’s most Michelin-starred chef, and chef Stéphane Costa, Blind is an invitation to feel, touch and taste. “Only in a world of the blind will things be what they truly are”, wrote Saramago. So “don’t be surprised if you are blindfolded in the middle of the meal or if sounds and aromas arise during the tasting”, they warn. The Blind Emotions menu is served from Tuesday to Saturday at dinner, but its contents are never revealed. Designed from a total list of 50 dishes, it varies depending on the season and the quality of the ingredients. “By candlelight”, “Lick your shell”, “Assault on the chicken coop”, “Bordaleira and Churra da Terra Quente”, “Snowing in the woods”, “Mc Blind” and “Memories of my childhood” are some of the possibilities. The latter, Vitor Matos’ favourite, “is a dish that defines my life and my reality. It uses products that made me the chef I am today”, he says.
Blind Emotions “is a gastronomic experience undergoing constant mutations and full of surprises”, with a total of 10 (€145) or 12 (€165) courses. There are two wine pairings designed for each of the menus, costing €85 and €100 respectively, and diners can choose the Master Wine Pairing Experience, an exclusive format which costs €200.
Prosa Restaurant, which opened in September 2023 and has already been recommended by the Michelin Guide, also offers some unique experiences. It is located in the MS Collection Aveiro — Palacete de Valdemouro, the first five-star hotel in the city centre, which has developed its entire concept around the legacy of Eça de Queiroz.
Under the baton of Rui Paula, the chef tells “a story in every dish”, with Portugal and Aveiro present in several comfort food dishes, with a strong focus on fish. “It is a contemporary tribute to the Portuguese tradition, where the estuary meets the ocean and the memories of Aveiro take on shape and flavour in every dish”, explains the chef. “Squid kebab” (€22), “French toast, smoked eel and jamón ibérico” (€24), “Our caldeirada” (€30), “Bísaro pork, celery and cider” (€28) and “Citrus, honey and lemonade” (€16) are some of the suggestions on the menu. Prosa, open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, also offers two tasting menus with 6 (€90) or 10 (€130) courses, with the option of wine pairing for €60 and €70, respectively. “My inspiration comes from my memories and the traditions of the Aveiro region, which I absorbed to gain inspiration”, says Rui Paula.
In every corner of the hotel, housed in an 18th-century building that was “once the residence of Eça de Queiroz’s father and family”, old-world charm blends with modern elegance. In addition to the fine dining casual restaurant, there is a mural by Alexandre Farto, aka Vhils, which “unveils the hidden layers of history that lie beneath the surface, connecting past and present in a timeless piece”, as well as a reading room with material provided by the Eça de Queiroz Foundation, allowing visitors to journey through the writer’s universe.
Driven by a hunger to feel, understand and create desirable new worlds, writers and chefs tell stories on paper and on plates. They share a common mission to move people and perpetuate memories with their works.
A work of literature is an invitation to savour plots and characters; the table is like an open book, full of blank pages where tasty stories are written. Happy reading. And bon appétit.
